Charred Cabbage Wedges with Anchovy Butter
How to make a cabbage taste like a steak
- Cabbage & Brassicas
- Side Dish
- Modern European
- vegetarian swap
- cast iron
- winter
Pointed cabbage wedges seared hard in a cast-iron pan until the leaves blacken and sweeten, then finished with anchovy butter and lemon. A winter vegetable with real drama.
Photo: Andy Li · CC0 · via Wikimedia Commons · all image credits
Ingredients
- 1 pointed or January King cabbage (about 1 1/2 pounds / 680 g)
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon flaky sea salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped (or 1 tablespoon white miso for a vegetarian version)
- 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts or breadcrumbs, to finish
- Parmesan, for grating
Equipment
- 12-inch cast-iron skillet with a lid, or a heavy pan plus foil
- Tongs
- Small saucepan for the butter
Why this recipe works
Charring is the fastest way to make cabbage interesting. Heat drives off the water, collapses the layers, and caramelises the sugars in the core, and the blackened edges taste almost like grilled meat. The whole trick is to leave the wedge alone long enough to actually char.
Pointed (hispi) cabbage works best because the wedges hold their shape and the leaves are tender all the way through. If you can only find a dense green or savoy cabbage, cut thinner wedges and add two minutes to the covered stage.
Heirloom varieties to look for
Cabbage varieties worth growing for this dish: January King, January King Improved, and the pointed Hispi / Caraflex types. All three are open-pollinated or widely available from seed, and they sweeten markedly after frost.
Method
Cut the wedges
Trim the base of the cabbage and cut it lengthwise through the core into four thick wedges. Leave the core intact; it is the hinge that holds each wedge together in the pan.
Season and oil
Brush the cut faces generously with olive oil and season with the flaky salt and black pepper. Let the wedges sit for 10 minutes while the pan heats.
Sear hard
Heat the cast-iron skillet over high heat for 4 minutes until it is genuinely hot. Lay in two wedges cut side down and press gently with a spatula. Sear for 5 to 6 minutes without moving them, until the base is deep black-brown.
Turn and steam
Turn the wedges, add 2 tablespoons of water to the pan, and cover immediately. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until a knife slides into the core with little resistance. Repeat with the remaining two wedges.
Make the anchovy butter
While the cabbage cooks, melt the butter in the small saucepan over low heat. Add the anchovies and garlic and cook gently for 2 minutes, mashing the anchovies until they dissolve. Stir in the lemon zest and juice and take the pan off the heat.
Glaze and serve
Spoon the anchovy butter over the hot wedges, scatter with parsley and hazelnuts, and grate over a little Parmesan. Serve immediately, while the edges are still crisp.
Keep the leaves
Reserve any loose outer leaves, toss with oil and salt, and roast at 425 F for 12 minutes. They make a crisp garnish for the plate or a snack while you cook.
Cook's notes
- Dry the cabbage well before it goes in the pan. Wet leaves steam instead of charring.
- Do not crowd the skillet. Four wedges at once drop the pan temperature and you end up with pale, limp cabbage.
- Anchovy disappears into the butter and leaves only savoury depth. If you are wary, use half the amount the first time.
Variations
- Swap the anchovy butter for a tahini and lemon dressing and finish with pomegranate seeds.
- Add 1 teaspoon of smoked paprika and a spoonful of harissa to the butter for a spicier glaze.
- Roast the wedges on a sheet pan at 450 F for 25 minutes if you would rather not stand at the stove.
Storage
Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Reheat in a hot skillet to bring the edges back; the microwave will make them soft and sweet without any char. The anchovy butter keeps for a week in the refrigerator and is superb on potatoes.
How to serve it
1 wedge per person. Serve it within the time noted above for the best texture, because heirloom produce is far less forgiving than supermarket vegetables.
